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Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Do You Know Where You Are?
Have you ever had a moment, usually when you're in the middle of a sentence, or waiting impatiently for the pedestrian lights to change, when from nowhere, a seemingly obvious observation pops into your head.
'Do you know where you are? You're standing on a street corner in Hanoi or Buenos Aires or Vienna. Fancy that.'
And you shake your head at the strangeness of it, as though comprehending the truth of the statement for the first time. Then you become a little baffled as to how you actually got to be where you are, and why you never noticed it before.
I had one of those on Saturday. I was sitting at a table sharing lunch with a student of mine at Tokyo Midtown. Tokyo Midtown is in Roppongi, one of the upmarket and swish parts of Tokyo. It's a huge complex of gallerias, restaurants and boutique stores surrounded on one side by a garden.
It was early, and the rush of lunch hour had yet to begin. We were the only people in the restaurant and there was a sense of quiet before the storm, as the staff milled around and prepared for the onslaught of the day, without minding us too much.
The chef was from New York but was in Tokyo for a few weeks. He was a panellist at the same conference as my student and so came and chatted with us briefly a few times as we ate.
On his second visit, he brought out a bowl covered reverently with a white paper towel. Underneath, nestled snugly inside were 3 shellfish.
They were about 30 cms in length with shells the rich ochre of ancient paintings and deep red flesh that was slightly translucent.
The creatures had been sent to him from a well renowned chef from Kanazawa but he didn't know, and indeed nobody in the kitchen knew, how to cook these unsuspecting critters.
Did we know? I think the question was directed more at my student than me, but I appreciated the inclusion nonetheless.
We started throwing around ideas, the world famous chef, the culinary expert and the cooking luddite (me). Fry them? Boil them? Eat them raw?
I watched one of the little creatures squirm and expand against the confine of its shell, as though stretching lazily, then looked up out the window.
I saw a woman lean into the cold winter's wind as she crossed the road trailed by 2 little kids. Behind her, the clipped green grass of the garden was short and neat. Further beyond the skyscrapers rose and extended into the distance, their neon Katakana dim against the sunlight.
I shook my head a little mystified and a little bemused, as a voice in my head said. Do you know where you are? You're in Tokyo looking at shellfish no one knows how to cook. Fancy that.
'Do you know where you are? You're standing on a street corner in Hanoi or Buenos Aires or Vienna. Fancy that.'
And you shake your head at the strangeness of it, as though comprehending the truth of the statement for the first time. Then you become a little baffled as to how you actually got to be where you are, and why you never noticed it before.
I had one of those on Saturday. I was sitting at a table sharing lunch with a student of mine at Tokyo Midtown. Tokyo Midtown is in Roppongi, one of the upmarket and swish parts of Tokyo. It's a huge complex of gallerias, restaurants and boutique stores surrounded on one side by a garden.
It was early, and the rush of lunch hour had yet to begin. We were the only people in the restaurant and there was a sense of quiet before the storm, as the staff milled around and prepared for the onslaught of the day, without minding us too much.
The chef was from New York but was in Tokyo for a few weeks. He was a panellist at the same conference as my student and so came and chatted with us briefly a few times as we ate.
On his second visit, he brought out a bowl covered reverently with a white paper towel. Underneath, nestled snugly inside were 3 shellfish.
They were about 30 cms in length with shells the rich ochre of ancient paintings and deep red flesh that was slightly translucent.
The creatures had been sent to him from a well renowned chef from Kanazawa but he didn't know, and indeed nobody in the kitchen knew, how to cook these unsuspecting critters.
Did we know? I think the question was directed more at my student than me, but I appreciated the inclusion nonetheless.
We started throwing around ideas, the world famous chef, the culinary expert and the cooking luddite (me). Fry them? Boil them? Eat them raw?
I watched one of the little creatures squirm and expand against the confine of its shell, as though stretching lazily, then looked up out the window.
I saw a woman lean into the cold winter's wind as she crossed the road trailed by 2 little kids. Behind her, the clipped green grass of the garden was short and neat. Further beyond the skyscrapers rose and extended into the distance, their neon Katakana dim against the sunlight.
I shook my head a little mystified and a little bemused, as a voice in my head said. Do you know where you are? You're in Tokyo looking at shellfish no one knows how to cook. Fancy that.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Yoi o toshi o
The final day of 2008 is a still and perfect winter’s day. The air is crisp and refreshing, the sun bright and the sky brilliantly blue. But it feels odd.
Tokyo itself is eerily empty and silent, the shops shuttered, the streets deserted save for one or two cars and an occasional pedestrian.
It’s a little unnerving, in the way apocalyptic sci-fi films are when they portray big cities void of humans (usually wiped out by a virus cure that turns all humans into zombies except one resourceful survivor and his dog - who play golf each day – and create a new cure - for the zombies this time - meanwhile discovering a whole colony of survivors - a mere 4 hour drive away. Terrible ending)....sorry, where was I?
Oh, so Christmas was unusual this year.
The scale of preparations and celebrations in the leadup was impressive and promised big things. Spectacular light displays, drunken christmas parties, carols and Santas abound.
Tokyo Midtown light display
Part of the Shinjuku terrace display
Everyone getting into the Christmas spirit
But the day itself came and went in a relatively low key manner. As though Christmas incarnate, merely nodded briefly in acknowledgment as she passed by, on her way somewhere else.
In Japan, Christmas is a date day for couples who spend it having dinner, holding hands, on the ferris wheel and so on and so on.
For my part, after speaking with family on skype, I shared some christmas pancakes with a friend from the guesthouse. Upon realizing we had read many of the same books, and me lamenting that I had no good book to read, we decided a trip to the library, where we could wander the isles fulls of strange and fantastic worlds, would be an appropriate way to spend the day.
I borrowed the last two books in the Harry Potter series and a small book on Japanese fairystories called The Neverending Forest. So when I got back home, I happily retired to my room and spent the rest of the day (and any spare time during the rest of the week) at Hogwarts.
Ahh…A good game, a good book, or a good film / dvd series to immerse oneself in. Bliss!
The clock struck midnight, Christmas day was over. The decorations were whipped down, and the preparations for New Year’s begins. Cards are sent, pine and bamboo wreaths are hung to bring good luck, cooks start busily making new year dishes.
New Years in Japan is usually spent with family, and includes the all important first visit to a Shrine where people wish for good fortune, good prosperity and good health,
As to be expected, there are the usual parties on but to be honest, I’m quite happy to bade 2008 a non descript goodbye and serenely welcome 2009, perhaps curling up with a bottle of wine and a good book.
In a city with over 12 million people, surely I’d be forgiven for preferring to spend a quiet evening with Mr Potter and his wizard friends in their final battle against evil?
With 2009 now a mere 4 or 5 hours away, Yoi - o – toshio – o to earthlings and aliens alike. I hope 2009 brings much health, happiness and mumbeans.
Tokyo itself is eerily empty and silent, the shops shuttered, the streets deserted save for one or two cars and an occasional pedestrian.
It’s a little unnerving, in the way apocalyptic sci-fi films are when they portray big cities void of humans (usually wiped out by a virus cure that turns all humans into zombies except one resourceful survivor and his dog - who play golf each day – and create a new cure - for the zombies this time - meanwhile discovering a whole colony of survivors - a mere 4 hour drive away. Terrible ending)....sorry, where was I?
Oh, so Christmas was unusual this year.
The scale of preparations and celebrations in the leadup was impressive and promised big things. Spectacular light displays, drunken christmas parties, carols and Santas abound.
But the day itself came and went in a relatively low key manner. As though Christmas incarnate, merely nodded briefly in acknowledgment as she passed by, on her way somewhere else.
In Japan, Christmas is a date day for couples who spend it having dinner, holding hands, on the ferris wheel and so on and so on.
For my part, after speaking with family on skype, I shared some christmas pancakes with a friend from the guesthouse. Upon realizing we had read many of the same books, and me lamenting that I had no good book to read, we decided a trip to the library, where we could wander the isles fulls of strange and fantastic worlds, would be an appropriate way to spend the day.
I borrowed the last two books in the Harry Potter series and a small book on Japanese fairystories called The Neverending Forest. So when I got back home, I happily retired to my room and spent the rest of the day (and any spare time during the rest of the week) at Hogwarts.
Ahh…A good game, a good book, or a good film / dvd series to immerse oneself in. Bliss!
The clock struck midnight, Christmas day was over. The decorations were whipped down, and the preparations for New Year’s begins. Cards are sent, pine and bamboo wreaths are hung to bring good luck, cooks start busily making new year dishes.
New Years in Japan is usually spent with family, and includes the all important first visit to a Shrine where people wish for good fortune, good prosperity and good health,
As to be expected, there are the usual parties on but to be honest, I’m quite happy to bade 2008 a non descript goodbye and serenely welcome 2009, perhaps curling up with a bottle of wine and a good book.
In a city with over 12 million people, surely I’d be forgiven for preferring to spend a quiet evening with Mr Potter and his wizard friends in their final battle against evil?
Saturday, December 13, 2008
The Walking Place of Myth
One day a little girl decided she wanted to explore the world.
Where should she start? she thought.
She had heard there were places where a person could walk beneath trees towering so high the leaves on their branches burned red and gold to keep warm against the cold winter air.
Hmm, she thought, I would dearly like to see this place. I think I'll start there.
So she hopped on a train and travelled very far to a place called Kichijoji / Shinjuku.
But when she arrived, she couldn't see any towering trees with leaves that burned red and gold.
So she wandered up and down until finally, she saw something sparkling crimson in the distance.
She walked towards the crimson sparkle until she came to a place called Inokashira Park / Shinjuku Gyoen.
This must be the walking place of myth, she thought.
And indeed it was because bikes weren't allowed.
This place was only for walking.
So she began to follow the path.
Along the way she met a skeleton.
What are you doing? she asked.
I'm picking my nose, answered the skeleton.
Why are you doing that? she asked.
I'm not sure, answered the skeleton, but I like it and I can't stop myself.
She thought this was a little odd, but since she had never met a skeleton before she figured this is what they do to amuse themselves. After all, it must be very boring to be dead.
She said goodbye to the skeleton and continued walking under the burning leaves.
Next, she came across a person reading a book under a very tall tree.
Hello, she said.
But the person didn't answer or move.
Thinking they might not know how to reply in English, she counted to ten before saying again, hello.
But the person remained silent and sat very still.
She stood for a while waiting for something to happen.
But nothing did.
As she waited, she began to get very cold.
I'd better hurry along, she thought, or I might freeze.
Ah ha! she thought and poked the person.
Just as she thought, the person was frozen solid.
Oh dear, she said to herself, So this is what happens when you sit for too long, too far from the burning leaves. I'd better start moving again.
So she left.
But she was still a bit worried she might freeze, so she bought a coffee to warm herself up, just to be sure.
In her coffee she met Panda Bear.
Hello Panda Bear, what are you doing in my coffee? she asked.
I'm having a bath, answered Panda Bear.
Oh, I'm terribly sorry to disturb you, she said.
That's ok, said Panda Bear.
She thought for a minute.
Well, Panda Bear, I know there's not many of you left, so I'll be careful not to drink you, she said very kindly.
Thank you, said Mr Panda Bear, I would greatly appreciate that. I'll be out soon anyway. I just have to wash under my arms.
And just as she promised, she was very careful drinking her coffee to make sure Panda Bear was not disturbed.
And when she reached the end, she thought, phew, at least there's still one Panda Bear left who can continue to enjoy his bath.
She continued walking until she came to a magical bridge that lead to a haunted temple.
On the magical bridge there were two midget gatekeepers.
As she approached, they cried, halt.
But she didn't hear them, and crossed the bridge anyway.
At the end of the bridge, she got too scared to go into the haunted temple, so she walked around the grounds instead.
Where she bumped into the gaming ghosts.
Oh wow, I didn't think gaming ghosts could exist in the place like this, she thought, cooool!
But she didn't speak to the gaming ghosts because as everyone knows, they only exist in the lands of 0s and 1s and she was in the walking place of myth.
So she continued wandering aimlessly around the haunted temple grounds, trying to get lost. But it was quite difficult sometimes.
She nearly managed it once or twice, if she looked up for a long time.
Although when she did that, she wandered too close to the fire tree and burnt her shoes and socks off.
Eventually she managed to lose herself in the perpetual sunset forest.
And in the deepest depths of the perpetual sunset forest, she was able to find the unfindable temple.
But what she was really looking for was the path of golden burning leaves that warmed her feet like good woollen socks and lead her weary body all the way home.
That night, before drifting to sleep, she smiled to herself and thought, I like exploring the world because you meet so many different people, and see such beautiful things.
I wonder where my next adventure will take me.
For little Isla, who has many adventures ahead of her
Where should she start? she thought.
She had heard there were places where a person could walk beneath trees towering so high the leaves on their branches burned red and gold to keep warm against the cold winter air.
Hmm, she thought, I would dearly like to see this place. I think I'll start there.
So she hopped on a train and travelled very far to a place called Kichijoji / Shinjuku.
But when she arrived, she couldn't see any towering trees with leaves that burned red and gold.
So she wandered up and down until finally, she saw something sparkling crimson in the distance.
She walked towards the crimson sparkle until she came to a place called Inokashira Park / Shinjuku Gyoen.
This must be the walking place of myth, she thought.
And indeed it was because bikes weren't allowed.
This place was only for walking.
So she began to follow the path.
Along the way she met a skeleton.
What are you doing? she asked.
I'm picking my nose, answered the skeleton.
Why are you doing that? she asked.
I'm not sure, answered the skeleton, but I like it and I can't stop myself.
She thought this was a little odd, but since she had never met a skeleton before she figured this is what they do to amuse themselves. After all, it must be very boring to be dead.
She said goodbye to the skeleton and continued walking under the burning leaves.
Next, she came across a person reading a book under a very tall tree.
Hello, she said.
But the person didn't answer or move.
Thinking they might not know how to reply in English, she counted to ten before saying again, hello.
But the person remained silent and sat very still.
She stood for a while waiting for something to happen.
But nothing did.
As she waited, she began to get very cold.
I'd better hurry along, she thought, or I might freeze.
Ah ha! she thought and poked the person.
Just as she thought, the person was frozen solid.
Oh dear, she said to herself, So this is what happens when you sit for too long, too far from the burning leaves. I'd better start moving again.
So she left.
But she was still a bit worried she might freeze, so she bought a coffee to warm herself up, just to be sure.
In her coffee she met Panda Bear.
Hello Panda Bear, what are you doing in my coffee? she asked.
I'm having a bath, answered Panda Bear.
Oh, I'm terribly sorry to disturb you, she said.
That's ok, said Panda Bear.
She thought for a minute.
Well, Panda Bear, I know there's not many of you left, so I'll be careful not to drink you, she said very kindly.
Thank you, said Mr Panda Bear, I would greatly appreciate that. I'll be out soon anyway. I just have to wash under my arms.
And just as she promised, she was very careful drinking her coffee to make sure Panda Bear was not disturbed.
And when she reached the end, she thought, phew, at least there's still one Panda Bear left who can continue to enjoy his bath.
She continued walking until she came to a magical bridge that lead to a haunted temple.
On the magical bridge there were two midget gatekeepers.
As she approached, they cried, halt.
But she didn't hear them, and crossed the bridge anyway.
At the end of the bridge, she got too scared to go into the haunted temple, so she walked around the grounds instead.
Where she bumped into the gaming ghosts.
Oh wow, I didn't think gaming ghosts could exist in the place like this, she thought, cooool!
But she didn't speak to the gaming ghosts because as everyone knows, they only exist in the lands of 0s and 1s and she was in the walking place of myth.
So she continued wandering aimlessly around the haunted temple grounds, trying to get lost. But it was quite difficult sometimes.
She nearly managed it once or twice, if she looked up for a long time.
Although when she did that, she wandered too close to the fire tree and burnt her shoes and socks off.
Eventually she managed to lose herself in the perpetual sunset forest.
And in the deepest depths of the perpetual sunset forest, she was able to find the unfindable temple.
But what she was really looking for was the path of golden burning leaves that warmed her feet like good woollen socks and lead her weary body all the way home.
That night, before drifting to sleep, she smiled to herself and thought, I like exploring the world because you meet so many different people, and see such beautiful things.
I wonder where my next adventure will take me.
For little Isla, who has many adventures ahead of her
Monday, December 8, 2008
Design Festa
The annual Design Festa was held the second or third weekend after I arrived at Tokyo Big Sight.
Held each year, anyone can take part and exhibit, perform and sell as long as the work is original.
I spent a blissful afternoon wandering the stalls laden with the fruit of other people's creativity and feeling rather bland in comparision.
Clothes, postcards, trees, toys, jewellery, horseheads, miniatures, music, stickers, princesses, photography, theatre, film - it was all there.
One of my favourites were the chess figures. This is how chess is supposed to be played -
A mean king...
with an even meaner queen....
and a wicked pawn...
Something I noticed was people are comfortable with dressing up for all sorts of reasons...
promoting rock horror metal bands like Shiroyamai...
selling mobile phone straps....
performing a play...
and errmm...even when having a beer...
There was also an eclectic mix of random installations, gadgets and odd things including...
strange and rather disturbing pictures of cats...
retro games..
a tree exhibition...
some fun people...
who make these toys...
plus an international presence courtesy of Singapore. This girl makes cool paper earrings and ring and exhibits at MAAD.
InSECT on the outside stage...
miniature animation sets...
I was asked if I wanted to be a princess but graciously declined...
and finally artists just doing their thing...
Held each year, anyone can take part and exhibit, perform and sell as long as the work is original.
I spent a blissful afternoon wandering the stalls laden with the fruit of other people's creativity and feeling rather bland in comparision.
Clothes, postcards, trees, toys, jewellery, horseheads, miniatures, music, stickers, princesses, photography, theatre, film - it was all there.
One of my favourites were the chess figures. This is how chess is supposed to be played -
A mean king...
with an even meaner queen....
and a wicked pawn...
Something I noticed was people are comfortable with dressing up for all sorts of reasons...
promoting rock horror metal bands like Shiroyamai...
selling mobile phone straps....
performing a play...
and errmm...even when having a beer...
There was also an eclectic mix of random installations, gadgets and odd things including...
strange and rather disturbing pictures of cats...
retro games..
a tree exhibition...
some fun people...
who make these toys...
plus an international presence courtesy of Singapore. This girl makes cool paper earrings and ring and exhibits at MAAD.
InSECT on the outside stage...
miniature animation sets...
I was asked if I wanted to be a princess but graciously declined...
and finally artists just doing their thing...
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